From walking a straight line to fluid lead changes, communication is the key. The horse, whether young and being ridden for the first time or older and out of shape or with problems must have an idea of what is being asked of them in order to make an attempt at any command. Much like a computer, a horse must be programmed first and then ridden in a like manner to be accurate. Therefore, you must see that training is a two-fold deal. Both the horse and the rider must have the same knowledge. (Please note: When lunging a young horse, limit your time to 5 to 7 minutes a session. Their joints are still developing. Overwork on a circle can cause lameness in the future.)

Lunging is the first step to opening up the lines of communication with your horse. Lunging teaches many things in a way that is easily understood. Lunging is the first step in creating correct movement in a horse. Conformation will always play an important part in movement, but proper training will teach a horse to carry a rider in a controlled, safe manner.

Lunging sets up the pecking order by effectively controlling the horse’s space.

Lunging teaches obedience and patience by learning body and voice commands. The horse learns to wait for them rather than running helter-skelter around in a circle. This will make the same commands while mounted easier to understand.

Lunging teaches circles. Circles encourage a horse naturally to use his legs correctly, pick up his feet and place them well. (Circles while mounted will be our next step.).

Lunging conditions the body. Like any other athlete, a horse must have strength and endurance, even for recreational riding. Lack of condition causes soreness and strains, the weight of a rider, especially an unbalanced rider, compounds the problem. A sore horse will be cranky at best and dangerous at worst.

Lunging teaches a horse to give to the bit. First, by not learning to lean on the halter, and then with the aid of a rhythm collector or similar device will come off of the bit by himself without human error.

Lunging is a fine way to evaluate a horse’s way of going. Checking disposition and soundness in a pre-purchase situation or for daily use to spot soreness and attitude, which in turn will allow you to adjust your training program for the day to suite your horses needs.

Please note that as, with any training, lunging must be done correctly to be effective.

CORRECT LUNGING

Required equipment will be splint boots with bell boots or wraps to protect the horse’s legs from possible injury. Aside from the obvious effects of injury, even a very minor ding can make a horse less likely to want to try something again. The start to creating resistance in a horse.

You will need a properly fitted halter, and lunge line suited to your liking. A lightweight lunging whip is useful. NOTE: The whip, like the spur, is an artificial aid. Both should be used only as an aid and never as your first command. Improper use of both will only frighten and confuse your horse.

Find a suitable area for lunging. If you have access to a round pen, your first sessions will be much easier. An enclosed area is best in case you should lose control of the horse. Flat ground is important. A fence or barrier of some sort can come in handy in some situations.

PREPARE.

Decide the direction you will teach first and stick to it. I am going to start out going to the left. I will keep all of my body positions the same. Going to the left, I will always hold the lead in my left hand, the whip or excess of the line in my right hand. I will always switch hands when I switch directions. I will point to the left, leading the horses nose to the left, start moving my feet and lifting the whip or swinging the rope end toward the horses hip to indicate forward motion. NOTE: I may need to swing the whip or rope toward the horse’s shoulder if he/she wants to keep facing me. Once I have the horse moving toward the direction I am asking, I will keep the whip low and move my feet at a quiet steady pace to show the horse that my intent is for him to follow my body quietly at the walk. If my feet are moving, his feet need to be moving. I will position my body off behind his whither to avoid inadvertently causing him to stop. I will keep my eyes relaxed and not staring at his face. A fixed stare at a horse’s eye can unsettle him. It can be perceived as a challenge and lack of confidence to a bold horse and a threat to a timid one. I will keep steady with the whip low and back with my feet moving. If the horse stops, I will keep my feet moving and bring the whip forward toward the hind legs to remind him to keep going until I stop my feet. The feet moving is the most natural way to communicate moving on to a horse. It is what propels all legged creatures. In a herd, a horse does not wait for the leader to yell, "let’s go!" He sees the leader move off. If you have ever had the opportunity to watch a group of horses together for any length of time, you may have witnessed the stomping of feet from one horse before they move out. The rate of speed desired is also noted in the body position and feet movement. Because this is so natural to a horse, they will easily see your intent. Now, you may add voice commands. When your body is communicating well, it is easy for the horse to make the association between body and voice. This makes the transition to the saddle easier to understand. All the while, you are teaching yourself body control. Your body control will aid the horse in his way of going and transitions while mounted. Body control works as a preparatory command. Preparatory commands allow the horse a chance to prepare. This in turn will build confidence in the horse that you are a trustworthy leader.

To stop, simply stop all forms of communication. Stop your feet. Lower your head, exhale and softly say "whoa". Remember, your horse is supposed to be responding to you. If you would like a smooth relaxed stop, act like it!!

The most certain way to make a great horse is to be a great leader. Don’t expect a calm secure and willing horse to come from a loud and rowdy training session. Even a speed event horse needs to be calm minded enough to nail a pattern and obedient enough to stop when it is over!

I will keep my horse on the circle and not on an oval. If the horse fades out, I will pull and release his nose until he comes in. If he leaks in, I will point the whip or swing the rope at the shoulder until he moves back out. I will do this consistently until he stays on the circle. Once he becomes steady for several strides, I will stop him and pet him.

Once you are both good at starts, stops and walking a nice round circle, change directions. Repeat the process above.

When you and the horse are good at the walk, you may add the trot, then the canter.

To trot, raise the whip a couple of feet higher. Elevate your shoulders and walk with more energy. If the horse does not respond by trotting, cluck to him. If that does not work, become more aggressive by cracking the whip. Once in the trot, keep your body and whip position keeping the energy in your body. The horse will keep trotting until you drop your arm/whip position and slow your energy. For the canter, raise the whip a bit higher than for the trot and kiss to the horse. Keep a steady cadence in your body rhythm.

Again remember that while using your body on the ground, you are building muscle memory, or habit into your system that will go to the saddle with you to create steadiness in your horse.

Again, the point to lunging is to set up the pecking order and train for obedience and correctness. Lunging is the best tool a trainer can have if done correctly. I hope you will take the time to learn and teach it correctly.

NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE EFFECTIVENESS OF THE "LITTLE" THINGS.

A valuable work of art is made with thousands of tiny, well placed brush strokes!

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