Il Palio di Siena – a traditional horse race in the heart of Italy
Written by by Saskia Penther of Equine Investigators. For more information or to join the network of equine students worldwide go to www.equineinvestigator.com

It is a game of honour, passion and glory.

The names appear surreal and fantastical: Tartuca (turtle), Onda (wave), Istrice (porcupine), Drago (dragon), Lupa (wolf), Nicchio (shell), Oca (goose), Civetta (owl), Chiocciola (snail), Pantera (panther), Aquila (eagle), Bruco (caterpillar), Leocorno (unicorn), Valdimontone (valley of the ram), Giraffa (giraffe), Selva (forest), Torre (tower).

17 symbolic names unite the Contradas of the Italian city Siena. Residents are bound to their city through a special festival - the Palio. It is celebrated every year from July, 2nd till August, 16th (Belloni, 1997). The Palio, of which the horse races are part of, is a larger festival distinguished through different highlights; various sacral festivities and a big pageant, for instance. Two races are the central points during these days of festivities, both of them carried out with the same procedure.

Plate 1: The Contrade of Siena

Historical background

The most popular and exciting festival in Siena had already existed long time before 1310. In this year when the official establishment was accepted, but the origin of the Palio of Siena goes back to the 11th century. Every year on August 16th people would honour the holy virgin in the sky. After the glorious battle of Montaperti of 1260 the festival also had a political impact. Since this time offering a candle has a symbolic importance; to give thanks to the Madonna and to reconfirm the independence of the municipality of Siena (Belloni, 1997).

In the beginning the Contradas were numerous. The Black Death (plague) was a significant reason for their decimation. While in the 1200’s there were 80 of these territorial districts, a document of 1723 reported only 42 (Betti, 1995). Through the centuries the Contradas were reduced to the current 17 districts and with an agreement by Princess Violante di Baviera of 1729 the boarder became official until today. (Belloni, 1997) The activities within a Contrada contain cultural initiatives as well as congresses of the members, who identify themselves with their own symbols, laws and areas. Their governmental organs are elected every two years. (Betti, 1995)

For scientists it is very difficult to find the roots of the classical festival of Siena. Often, the Palio is compared with ancient weapon games. The horse races were already established in the early times of the games. In the beginning of the 14th century the “corse alla lunga” run by horses without jockeys were arranged. The starting point was outside of the city walls and the horses had to cross the streets of Siena to reach the cathedral of San Bonifazio. The prize for the winner was the “Pallium” which is a valuable piece of cloth. Out of this item the word “Palio” has developed. (Betti, 1995)

Days until the race

It is not easy to mention all the days belonging to the Palio. July, 2nd and August, 16th are the days when horse races take place. Without any doubt these are the highlights of the whole festival. But also the preparations, the waiting and the historical procession with men who sway banners of the Contradas are traditions and increase the suspense of people.

Only 10 of the 17 Contradas are allowed to participate in the race. In the following year the excluded seven of the past year are then allowed to participate; the additional three Contadras are drawn by lot. (Belloni, 1997)

The horses play the leading role during the days of the Palio. The riders do not know in the beginning which horse they will ride in the race! In June and August the horses are presented by their owners and it is decided if they are suitable to run the race. Firstly, a sound check by a team of veterinarians is fundamental. Secondly, horses that appear suitable are tested by their owners or riders several times. They must be able to deal with the race course since it is quite dangerous for both of them because of steep, sloping curves, for instance (Betti, 1995). During these tests the horses have to run six (test-) races and finally ten horses are chosen to establish an equal group. The “Tratta” is the system by which the horses are distributed to the Contradas. In an official procedure it is chosen by lot which horse is ridden by which jockey. The elected horses are then guarded zealously until the day of the race; they are kept in the best stable called “house of the horse”.

In early times the bravest men were chosen as riders. Today the rider is usually a professional jockey hired by the Contrada. Often the men come from Sardinia or the mountains. Their job is not only to win the race but also to avoid the victory of other Contradas.

75 seconds until victory

Finally, the day of the spectacle has come. The race is like a liberation from the stress of the past days. In the morning, the Fantino mass is celebrated by the archbishop in the Capella di Piazza. Jockeys, owners and captains ask for protection by the Madonna. Later on, the jockeys have to officially sign in for the race in the town hall. In the afternoon, the horses for the race will be blessed before the big pageant starts. At last, the horse race starts. All people are lead by there emotions and the atmosphere seems electric!!

At the start, all Contradas have to line up between two ropes on the slope. When the last rider of enters the start-area between the two ropes, the front rope is brought down quickly to give way for the horses and start the race. The “mossiere” is the final judge who decides if a start was valid or not. His decision is final, therefore it is common to bribe the mossiere with the intention of influencing the process. But since all Contradas usually bribe the judge, chances are again alike for every rider.

Different rules are defined for the procedure of the Palio. The jockeys wear the colours of their Contrada and a metal-helmet which is called “zucchino”. They have to ride three rounds on the course - a total distance of one kilometre, approximately. The riders are allowed to constrain the others but not to hold on to each other. It is also allowed to whip other riders but only after the black and white flag behind the starting line, was passed. They ride without saddles and injuries because of bad fallings of the horse are the rule. During the race fever of passion reaches the peak. About 75 seconds decide over winning and losing. When the horses pass the finish line, the end of the race is indicated by fireworks and drum roll.

After the race the Contrada that won, moves to the Basilica of the holy Maria of Provenzano. That is in July. In August they move to the cathedral for celebrating the victory. The festival goes on until the night, the streets of the city are filled with songs of rejoice and victory. (Betti, 1995)

Satisfaction at the end

Acknowledgements and a big folk festival form the quaint ending of the Palio. The rituals are the same every year. Everything is well organised despite all excitements.

The race is not the end of the festival. After the days of enjoying, a general assembly is called to organise more festivities, which are planned for the end of September or beginning of October, to celebrate the victory. Again. The decoration of the district as well as the preparation of the feast and the procession for victory bring a lot of work. Also a year book of the Palio is published.

All people do their work with passion for their city and its old traditions. The cycle of ecstasy and excitement never ends in the heart of Italy, where horses and riders become heroes of a whole municipality! (Betti, 1995)

References:

Belloni, Stefania (1997), “Der Palio”, Plurigraf, Narni/ Italy

Betti, Luca et al. (1995), “Der Palio Führer”, Betti Editrice, Siena

Plates online available from: [Retrieved on 07.05.2007]

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